Yet Another Teddy Bear V2.1
6.24.2013 - a complete rewrite
7.16.2013 - minor typo fixed
Download the PDF Version
This bear has no seams. It’s knit in the round with very little sewing at all. It is an easy pattern but I would encourage a beginning knitter to try a professionally written pattern rather than this one.
Even with this complete rewrite, I encourage you to use this pattern as a guideline. Make your bear your own. Use a different size yarn, different size needles, longer arms or legs or both... try anything and everything :).
I’ve included photos, links, and notes at the end - including alternative ways of doing various sections.
Materials I use:
This bear is knit from the legs to the top of the head. The arms are then added and then the ears, face and necktie.
I use a circular cast on (Links) and cast on 6 stitches. (Alt)
I do both legs at one time (Alt)
Leg Round 1, increase 1 stitch in each stitch 12 stitches for each leg
Leg Round 2, increase 1 stitch in each stitch 24 stitches for each leg
Then stockinette stitch in the round for 22 rows.
Knit across 1 half of one leg until you get to the middle of the two legs (crotch)
Add 2 stitches and knit across half of the other leg
Round the bin and knit across the back half of leg 2 and pick up 2 stitches, finish leg 1.
Note: I usually catch the front and the back stitches when I pick up those 2 stitches to complete the crotch. This is so I don’t have to do much sewing but even if you leave a hole, sewing it up is easy. You should now have a total of 52 stitches on your needle - 26 in front and 26 in back.
Knit your 52 stitches even for about 4 or 6 rows and now you will do short rows to shape the butt. You will ONLY do these on the 26 stitches of the back.
Butt Round 1: K24, wrap (yarn to front, slip 1 stitch, yarn to back - see Links) Slip the wrapped stitch and turn
Butt Round 2: P22, wrap, S1 and turn
Butt Round 3: K20, wrap, S1 and turn
Butt Round 4: P18, wrap, S1 and turn
Butt Round 5: K16, wrap, S1 and turn
Butt Round 6: P14, wrap, S1 and turn
Butt Round 7: K12, wrap, S1 and turn
Butt Round 8: P10, wrap, S1 and turn
Butt Round 9: K8, wrap, S1 and turn
Butt Round 10: P6, wrap, S1 and turn
Butt Round 11: K4, wrap, S1 and turn
Butt Round 12: P2, wrap, S1 and turn
Now you are in the center of the butt (aka center of the back) and you are done with short rows, so knit to end and then continue the round. (Note: you might want to see the link about hiding short row holes before you go further.)
I knit 3 or 4 complete rounds and then change colors at the mid-butt point.
At some point usually before I finish the sweater, I stuff the legs, sew up the crotch if needed and sew the hip in (so the bear can sit down).
I cinch up the bottoms of each legs and knot and hide the yarn and then stuff the legs - not stiffly but so they still have some sqush.
Then I take a length of yarn and do a simple running stitch at the crotch line (see photos below to really ‘get’ what I’m talking about here).
Continue stockinette stitch on your 52 stitches for 25ish more rows total from the top of the butt. If you are doing the sweater, switch back to bear color for your last round.
Overview: For the neck you will decrease over the next two rows until you have a total of 24 stitches on your needle, then you’ll increase til your have 48 for the head.
Neck Round 1: K2tog, K1, K2tog, K1, continue across the back then repeat on the front. 34 stitches total
Neck Round 2: K, K2tog, K1, K2tog, continue across back ending with k2 then repeat across the front.
Make sure you have 24 stitches total.
Neck Round 3: Increase 1 stitch in each stitch all the way around.
Make sure you have 48 stitches total.
Head Round 1-3: Work even and stop when you turn your work and the front side is facing you. Make sure the butt is not facing you. You are getting ready to make the nose and you want the nose on the opposite side of the bear from the butt. DO NOT Laugh. Having to rip out the face because you’ve put it on the back of the head isn’t fun, I promise.
Head Round 4: K10 , place marker, K2 , place marker, K2, place maker, K10, k24 (these are the back of the head)
Head Round 5: K10, move marker, K1, M1, K1, move marker, K1, M1, K1, move marker, K10 then K24.
Head Round 6: K around even
Head Round 7: K10, move marker K2, M1, K1, move marker, K1, M1, K2, move marker, K10 then K24.
Head Round 8: K around even
Head Round 9: K10, move marker K3, M1, K1, move marker, K1, M1, K3, move marker, K10 then K24.
Head Round 10: K around even
Head Round 11: K10, move marker K4, M1, K1, move marker, K1, M1, K4, move marker, K10 then K24.
Head Round 12-19: K around even
Head Round 20: K10, move marker K3, SSK, K1, move marker, K1, K2Tog K3, move marker, K10 then K24.
Head Round 21: K around even
Head Round 22: K10, move marker K2, SSK, K1, move marker, K1, K2Tog K2, move marker, K10 then K24.
Head Round 23: K around even
Head Round 24: K10, move marker K1, SSK, K1, move marker, K1, K2Tog K1, move marker, K10 then K24.
Head Round 25: K around even
Head Round 26: K10, move marker, SSK, K1, move marker, K1, K2Tog, move marker, K10 then K24.
Head Round 27-28: K around even
Head Round 29: *K4, K2Tog repeat from * to end
Head Round 30: *K3, K2Tog repeat from * to end
Somewhere around here, you want to make sure you have added all the stuffing you want.
Head Round 31: *K2, K2Tog repeat from * to end
Head Round 32: *K1, K2Tog, repeat from * to end
Head Round 33: *K2Tog, repeat from * to end
Gather up the stitches and pull to close, hide yarn end.
Pick up 20 stitches (Alt) on the side for the arm. I count down about 4 rows from the neck and try to make the side hip my center line. Pick up 5 stitches on 4 sides of a box (see pictures at the end). Work 20 stitches for about 16 rows.
For sweater, I do about the first 8-10 rows in the sweater color and then switch to the bear color.
Arm Bindoff Round 1: *K2, K2Tog, repeat from *
Arm Bindoff Round 2: K2Tog for a round
Weave yarn through remaining stitches, pull, tie off and hide yarn end.
This is a major change from the V1 pattern. These new ears are easier and look better - better shape, better texture, than the old.
As you look at the top of the head you should see 6 spokes where you decreased. Pick the two on the sides to use for your ear foundations. Starting at the top of the head, pick up 18 stitches from the top going down the side.
Ear Row 1: K all stitches - garter stitch - you are no longer knitting in the round.
Ear Row 2-4: Sl the first stitch - K the rest
Ear Row 5: S1, K3, K2Tog, *K4, K2Tog, repeat from *
Ear Row 6: S1, K2, K2Tog, *K3, K2Tog, repeat from *
Ear Row 7 and 8: S1, K the rest.
Ear Row 9: S1, K1, K2Tog, *K2, K2Tog, repeat from *
Ear Row 10: S1, K2Tog, *K1, K2Tog, repeat from *
Weave yarn through remaining 6 stitches, pull, tie off and hide yarn end.
Face and Necktie:
I use yarn to ‘draw’ the face (satin stitch nose and bullion stitch eyes) but buttons are great or googly eyes and plastic nose.
I like to cinch the neck with a tie - I just like the look. I crochet the tie and just tie it on.
Notes: I am not a professional pattern maker. This is not a professional pattern. It is offered for free to anyone one who wants to use it for any reason. If you want to sell your bears, great. If you want to sell this pattern, fine. If you want to claim it as your own, no problem. Do whatever you want with it. I hope you enjoy it.
If you find a problem, I’d be grateful if you would let me know: firstname.lastname@example.org.